Farewell Kashion…

We have officially had our last day on our internship at Kashion. Can’t believe how the time has flown!

I brought gifts and made a card for Kiki and my team. They have been great and will be missed! Kiki nearly cried and kept hugging me when I gave them to her!

We also had got Laura a bottle of wine and chocolates (from none other than Marks & Spencer) to say a big thank you for her help and giving us this amazing opportunity. We are going to go to dinner with her and the Kashion team members next Wednesday. She was very complimentary about us and has unbelievably offered us a job when we graduate!! So amazing. This whole experience has really been so life enhancing and eye opening. I am feeling very lucky to have been a part of this program and will honestly remember it for the rest of my life.

It was a very strange and melancholy feeling leaving the Kashion offices for the last time. It feels like no time ago we were arriving there for the first time with fresh eyes, now it is somewhere we are very familiar with and have some great memories in. It has been such an insight into the fast fashion industry and I definitely feel I have a better understanding of the world. It is hard to grasp how much I have learnt here but I look forward to applying it where possible in my studies and future ventures.

The China Girls and Laura.

Before and after… last picture by the Kashion sign.

Preparations…

Another manic day!

Been running around trying to get all our samples made ready for the shoot.

We were told after lunch that Laura would be assessing our collections at 4pm. I had nearly all my 15 pieces as the deadline requested.  The blue jacket, my shirt and finally the black jacket were finished. The remainders are due to be ready tomorrow morning so will have them just in time!

I was then informed after lunch, that Laura would be reviewing our collections at 4pm. I was told that we needed to go around Kashion and find more samples to complement our look and create a larger body of clothes for the collection and shoot.

My collection is an Autumn/Winter collection so there is a darker colour scheme to my friends. Monochrome black and white pieces, featuring stripe and zip details link the piece together, with shocks of electric blue. All the clothes were arranged into outfits on the table so it was easier to see the looks. It was a challenge but by o’clock I was ready. Laura was delayed so it was rearranged for first thing tomorrow morning. It was a good experience to do this as it is something I have never done before. Quickly putting a 10 outfit collection together, was something I have never done before. It was great seeing what the other Kashion staff suggested and I valued their opinion greatly.

We are still unsure what is going on about the shoot. There have been talks of going to Don Quan lake but that would be a challenge on any levels. We need to bring our own shoes, accessories, make up etc.

Hurry…

I have had a very busy day today (like most days at Kashion).

All my samples are currently, (I really hope) being made. The make team have been informed that they are urgent and needed for the shoot on Thursday (yep, that’s a new development). It is full steam ahead downstairs as our group of four all need them doing by Thursday and all of Kashion are still wanting samples made.

I have had the blue trousers and black piped trousers back today, aswell as a shirt (see below for pictures). They are ok… On some the fit isn’t great and there are a few changes need to be made. But they will be ok for the shoot, which at the moment is our main priority. Any alterations will take too long to be done and will have to be followed through by our team if they want our designs to be taken further. Can’t believe our last day is on Friday… 3 days!

Today was mostly spent dealing with fabric… always an enjoyable task in Kashion (not). Lushell informed me that I needed to get the information for every fabric I had used on every garment I have had made. I also needed to cut a large (40cm x 20cm) piece, which would all go up to the fabric department. They were to input all the information into the database, resulting in a code that would go on the labels. It was a surprisingly complex and something I hadn’t heard about before in Kashion. We are also required to find out what the weight of the fabric was (stretch fabrics only). This involved cutting a circular sample (using a special cutting tool) and weighing it. It was a very interesting process and great to see. It would have been an ok task if I had known from the start, but trying to find fabric from a while back was difficult. At one point I had to go digging through all the leftover fabrics.

I have done so much running around today… up and down the four storey building so many times. In the end I managed to get everything that was needed and get it to the fabric department in time. After processing the details and codes will be put on a label and will go on the samples.

The shoot is something Laura mentioned when we were given our new brief a while ago. However, due to the national holiday and subsequent backlog of work at Kashion, we have been behind from the start. The worst thing is when you have a looming deadline, but can’t do anymore as relying on something/someone else.

We know next to nothing about the photo shoot other than Alan is helping us and it is on Thursday. Not feeling good about this.

 

The MK Woman…

I want to summarise what I know about the Michael Kors demographic that I am designing for. I have tried to find out the woman I am designing for and found a lot of useful information and articles online. My favourite being a quote from New York Observer…

Stefani Greenfield: “A Michael Kors woman is a woman who celebrates her femininity,” she said. “She’s body-confident. She wants to make a statement but doesn’t want to be screaming, ‘Look at my clothes!’ She is a woman who wants to be trend-inspired. And she’s a loyal follower. Michael Kors women are cult-like.”
(Read more here)

I see her as a strong and confident woman who wants her image to reflect this. Her clothes need to make her feel like this… poised and self-assured. They need to be comfortable and flattering, the fabrication and design needs to take these qualities into consideration. The garments should be understated yet striking. I don’t think the designs should be in any way over-powering, rather be a canvas for them to emulate their own image and attitude. The designs should be understated and simple in their approach, but polished with beautiful features, details, and above all excellent quality (I think the fabric is often the most important element to this). This is what elevates the designs from the standard to the luxury.

I also found the Michael Kors mission statement and design philosophy (here) which sums it up brilliantly.

Design Philosophy

“Luxury accessories and sportswear. Polished, sleek, sophisticated American sportswear with a jet-set attitude. Vision of a jet-set, luxury lifestyles to women and men around the globe.”

“A timepiece is one of the most personal things a man or woman can wear. Our watches are the perfect mix of form and function and stands for everything I believe in… chic, luxurious design.”

-Michael Kors-

Mission Statement

Michael Kors is the leading American fashion designer for luxury accessories and sportswear. The company’s heritage is rooted in producing polished, sleek, sophisticated American sportswear with a jet-set attitude. Whether Aspen, Palm Beach or Capri, our mission is to bring our vision of a jet-set, luxury lifestyle to women and men around the globe. Our products, emblematic of the highest standard of quality, include apparel, accessories and beauty. Our lifestyle-driven company embraces the highest standards of creativity, quality, technology and human resources.

My time working on and researching this brand, has made me realise what an immense powerhouse the brand is. It is hugely popular here in China. I have seen a never-ending supply of knock-off MK goods around the markets here. I think it is the lifestyle and image they want to buy into as much (if not more than) as the designs and good themselves.

I feel like I have grasped a decent understanding of the brand now and it’s a shame I’m not able to develop this further as my time at Kashion is so brief. I have found this experience of following a brand rather than my own likes and whims, unlike anything I have ever done before. It has been a challenge but I think it has made me a more considered and better designer because of it. There is no doubt that being a fashion designer involves a personal style and approach (that’s something that separates you from others in many ways) however, when it comes to the real world of working within the industry you need to be able to translate your own design philosophy and image to that of the brand you are working for. I think this is one of the most valuable things I have learnt from my internship and something I will take away from this experience to my future placements.

Next seasons trends…

Yesterday, I went over to chat to my team, as I hadn’t spoken to them properly all day. I asked how they were doing. They were very busy and I offered to help, if there was something I could assist them with I would be happy to do it.

They are currently very busy preparing new seasons trend book. They have all of the fabrics laid out across the large meeting table in the office, grouped into various colours, types and styles. They told me they have been using Pinterest however; don’t know the vocabulary to find the images they want. I immediately said I could help with this and set to work, trying to get a feel for what kind things they were after. The clothes can be more contemporary (less commercial, which is great for me as I have a better knowledge of this), details and colour/mood images were all in demand.

Within minutes I had found lots of relevant images, that after checking with Alan, I understood to be really helpful. I did this for the rest of the day, sourcing images that I thought depicted the fabric and mood they were after. There are so many lots of fabric that I had my work cut out! I realise having strong images is vital in such a document. It needs to convey everything they want in the upcoming collection effectively.

Today, Kiki asked me to continue with this, which I was happy to do. Later in the day Alan came over with some sheets he had worked on and shown to Laura. She had given him feedback, saying the image I had found was great and the others on the page weren’t as strong, as the colours looked more Autumnal. So, I was asked to find more like it, with a fresher yellow like in the picture.

Also, the examples of animal print and stripes they had found were old and un-inspiring so he asked me to find something different. I have found lots of new takes on animal print which I think will be relevant, as well as different types of stripes.

By the end of the day, Kiki and Alan were both following me on Pinterest, included in the board I was working on and there was proper team work going on. I kept a steady flow of images coming their way and they added them where they saw fit to the document. I feel like I am having a positive impact of the teams work, which I a great feeling. I’m glad to be helping them on such an important task; especially with it being praised by Laura and feel it is helping me understand the process as well as the team itself.

And they’re in…

All designs are officially in and being made!

Unfortunately I couldn’t get them in for sampling yesterday (despite me having them ready) as my team was out of the office with a meeting. This meant I couldn’t get the code from Lushell (all designs sent down must have a unique code that identifies which designer and department it belongs to), which was frustrating as time is running out.

I have had some more samples back. The drape top dress (that Kiki wasn’t sure about initially) has been made into the final samples with amendments. The black and white panelled asymmetrical skirt is in too. I like this design, as it is simple and striking at the same time. The sample is good although the top panel is white when it should be black (which is easily remedied) and there is slight puckering where the white fabric has been hand stitched but these issues should be resolved easily.

When I took my designs down I saw them working on the patterns for my clothes. It was really interesting to see them altering the things I had just informed them about. I also saw my striped jacket being made which was exciting.

Cannot believe how quickly the time has gone here at Kashion! I am anxious to get the work done in time for the deadline and am working hard to this, however there have ben external factors out of my control, which have impacted the timing of things. The public holiday and subsequent backlog of work, as well the general impending deadlines of the teams at Kashion have meant my designs have been struggling to get through to me. Hope it all comes together soon.

(I would love to include photos to this post however, now I am without a phone its not as easy to take photos!)

Shay McCarthy-Symes…

Shay is a MMU BA Fashion graduate and has been out in China for about one and a half years. She has become a good friend and has helped us so much during our time here in Ningbo. Her stories about what she is getting up to in her own work, and the opportunities she has been offered whilst in China are incredible. So I asked her for some more details on her time here as to get an informed understanding of what it is really like for her.

Shay came out here as part of a graduate program and began teaching English. This later developed into her current, full-time position within our college here, Zhejiang Fashion & Textile College. She has continued teaching English, but now also teaches classes on Fashion. It is great for them as it gives them an insight into the Western fashion scene and pushes their boundaries that little bit more. For example she will often outline at the beginning of a fashion lesson that under no circumstances must and bows, prom dresses or bling be incorporated in their work (a common theme in Chinese fashion design).

She has helped us all when we were unsure about our own lessons and it is clear she is a thoughtful teacher. She said herself she cares about making her lessons enjoyable and wants her students to get something out of her classes. She even spent evenings tutoring, to get students prepared for national English competitions where one went on to reach the final.

However, her fashion career out here is equally as impressive.

Shay has been keen to take advantage of opportunities here (a quality I am noticing to being key to success). She attends meetings with staff from the college, working to improve the students’ experience and connection with industry. Shay (like many tutors back in Manchester) recognises it is mutually beneficial to be practicing what you preach. She has done freelance work for womenswear, menswear, childrenswear an even accessory design.

Competitions are a great way to gain experience within the Chinese fashion scene (although a translator is required). There are a lot of such events here and often with a hefty sum of prize money up-for-grabs. Whilst we have been here, she has competed in a national fashion design competition. She did amazingly well and was in the top 30 out of 850 competitors! A three-outfit collection was designed and made for the contest. It was based on an ethnic minority in China and Shay did some beautiful designs for it.

For this competition it was not compulsory for the participants to make the garments themselves, but Shay worked hard and made sure the best person for the job was found. She made a great contact; one of the most accomplished seamstresses from a top factory was commissioned to make her three outfits.

I saw her meticulously cut out her pattern pieces, ready to be sent off to the seamstress and the final product. They were all immaculate and Shay was pleased with all but one of the garments. However, that was easily resolved, just in time for the photo shoot.

I was more than happy to help Shay by modelling her collection in a photo shoot. It took place in the university’s studio (another fantastic resource) and Rachel (an accomplished photographer and friend of Shay’s from home who has come out to teach).

                        

The photos turned out great and were used in her portfolio that accompanied her to the event itself. There was a catwalk and even a gruelling interview.

Shay’s most impressive and exciting accomplishment to date has happened whilst we have been out here. We have been hearing the ongoing developments and found the whole thing fascinating. Shay is currently working part-time for a footwear design company. A friend of Hank, a tutor at the college here and leather specialist approached her. She has been entrusted with a large and ever increasing amount of responsibility. She has chosen colours for new collections, right before thousands were sent into production and is also in charge of trend research. She has recently got back from a convention where she has selected next season’s collection and met some invaluable contacts that appreciate her Western and Chinese understanding and insight.

Her achievements here are truly incredible and I have really enjoyed getting to know her and hearing her experiences. The opportunities here are incomparable to in the UK and Shay is riding every one to the max. It is really inspiring to see and I look forward to hearing about her exciting future. It has really made me think about my own career path and future horizons. I am feeling so exceptionally fortunate to be here and having this incredible life experience.

 

Busy…

Today has been quite manic. I found out today that it is a national holiday, so this will be the last day of this week! There is so much to do and I am very aware of time running out.

I have spent the day planning the collection, trying to prepare fabrics (which is no small feat) and then attempting to inject some colour into the other wise dark collection. It isn’t like a collection we would design in uni where there would be a strong colour theme and repetition running throughout. This needs to be more practical and versatile for the customer who buys it. My main problem is that I have made a fair few samples before this new brief and it is proving difficult to incorporate these into one versatile yet united collection, as well as adding colour to my rather black palette.

I ran out of time today and didn’t quite have time to get some more in for sampling. Very annoyed but think it should be ok as the other girls are in similar situations. We have been thinking we may have to complete the publication side of things in our own time, as this holiday has meant a back-log of samples waiting to be made and we are very dependant on this. I have ordered the fabric I wish to use so hopefully that should come in time!

I have tried to be aware of my personal time management however; sometimes things are out of my control. I have done a lot of running around today and felt like I am back in uni before a deadline. It’s good to feel busy again though.

 

Shanghai…

I am just back from a whirlwind of a trip to Shanghai. We left Friday afternoon so we could make the most of the weekend there.

We stayed in a hostel that was in a great central location. There was a slight issue in the fact there wasn’t enough beds for us (resulting in four sharing a double bed and two sharing a single!).

The first day wasn’t great as within hours of arriving, there were two thefts. Hannah had her purse stolen in the subway in a matter of minutes. Then I had my iPhone stolen. Wonderful start but things could only get better!

The following day (Saturday) we went to the famous fakes market. It is an experience! Full to the brim of fake Beats speakers, iPhone accessories (just to rub it in more with me!), bags, purses and watches. It was quite incredible and took quite a bit of energy to haggle with the ludicrous prices that we were initially asked for. My haul consisted of some minty Nike free runs, some bits for my non-existent phone, a beautiful Buddha and some hand carved name stamps.

That night we went out and saw the one and only Miss Dynamite (who was incredible may I add). It was great to meet new people and see the city at night.

The Sunday called for some culture. So Josie, Beth, Rimsha and (after reporting my theft to the police) me went to Shanghai Museum. It is an amazing building, brimming with Chinese art and artefacts. My favourite was the Jade Gallery and the tradition dress displays.

Jade face

I have always loved the colourful textiles of the Chinese, however, this was a step up from what I had seen before. The traditional garments were exquisite in their construction and decoration. The finest details made them stand out for me. I even spotted some extremely delicate batik, I didn’t think was possible to get such an intricate design so small. There was a rich array of embroidery and textile based pieces as well as some antique objects that were works of art in their own right.

               

The Tibetan masks were also incredible and had a wide variety of emotions depicted. Some were a little creepy, and others beautiful. I made sure I took lots of photos so I could reference all the things I had seen, as it was near impossible to take everything in.

               

 

The next (and final) culture stop for the day was the antiques market. As soon as we got there Josie and I were giddy with excitement. It was a street filled with stalls selling, beautiful and aged objects and Chinese objects. Josie found her object-self in the form of a teapot!

I loved it and took plenty of photos trying to capture the eclectic array of goods there. I especially liked the accumulation of decorative items… and how they were arranged and worked together.

Sadly we didn’t have much time there as we had to head back to Ningbo, so ended up separating and three of us panic-buying oriental, lovely red jewellery boxes. That will be fun getting them home!

Overall, (despite the mishaps) it has been an exhausting yet great trip to Shanghai. I really like the city and we definitely want to go back there again before we go.

Meeting…

Today we had our follow-up meeting with Laura and our team leaders. In turn, we went through what we had been doing whilst at Kashion, our client, and our aims for the rest of our time.

I have been fortunate as the others have been changing clients, which is more confusing and means they are less able to understand the brand and what to design.

I appreciated having a more in depth description of an Michael Kors woman and the process made me understand who is was designing for so much better (which is just so crucial).

An MK woman is older than the other groups’ demographics, rather a more mature professional who wants classic pieces that look expensive and have nice details. They want something that makes them feel confident and comfortable. Print is popular, but all fabrics should be a good quality.

So we have now been set the challenge of designing and producing a fifteen-garment collection. The pieces should compliment each other but have diversity within them as to cater for different preferences.

This then can be shot and styled by us and made into a book, so we have a physical piece to show at the end of this experience.

It has gone from one extreme to another. We have all been finding things a little slow at Kashion lately, and not been given an awful lot of direction. Now things have really picked up and it is going to be a challenge to get it all done in time. We don’t have long left at Kashion and we will dependant on fabric ordering lead times and the making team downstairs for samples.

Despite this challenge, I am feeling positive and want to show Laura I am capable. I really appreciate her precious time and help and hope I can get it all done in time!

I have also got some more samples back. The dress Kiki wasn’t sure about is back and is a hit! Pleased she approves as I appreciate she understands the MK brand better than I do.

I have made some adjustments to it such as; change the exposed zip at the back to a concealed one, move the zips on the front slightly so it flows better and is more aesthetically pleasing. The person who took my design, interpreted my drawing differently to how it was meant, and put raw, single zips instead of inserted ones like explained on the sheet (I wrote and drew it clearly) but it just shows how accurate designs need to be illustrated and how much room for interpretation there is!

The neckline on this dress is too high and needs to be relaxed slightly so it drapes nicely. I also thought the shoulders on the top were too thick. This was originally intentional, as I considered the MK woman, who is an older demographic, with a potentially slightly larger frame.  I know my mum often wants a slight sleeve so she doesn’t feel so exposed and it is often more flattering and I remembered this when designing. However, once made it looked too big and broad and I suspected it would do the opposite effect to my intention of flattering. So making the shoulder straps a little thinner, was also added to the list of alterations.

Another design back was a stretch, mocha coloured body con dress (the one inspired by the Burberry ruched dress). The only co-ordinating lining fabric I found was poor quality and cheap so I suggested a double layer of the same fabric. However, the make team forgot this (a seemingly frequent occurrence, despite my instructions on the design sheet but, I think language is to blame) so the dress was very thin and areas, such as the waistband, pulled where under stress. The sample looked ok on, but I think will look a lot better once the fabric is doubled.

All these amendments were explained to the pattern team and will hopefully be correctly and won’t need any further adjustments.

I think I am used to this process now and quite enjoy working directly with the garment. I like considering the features and design on the body and working issues through. I would love to learn how these are actually changed and amended on the patterns and made, but sadly this won’t be an option as there isn’t much time at all and everyone is busy, especially with our new deadline!